Ethical Fashion Digest November 2011
Posted: November 26, 2011 Filed under: Academic paper, Book, Conferences, News, Studies | Tags: Ethical Fashion Digest, Ethical Fashion News 2 Comments »This is my second digest of interesting news, articles etc. within the last few weeks. Sorry that I don’t sum them up, but that would be too much. Read whatever sounds interesting.
By the way: Would you prefer to have this digest once a week, every second week or monthly? Thanks for your replies.
Newspapers & Journals
12/2011: The Atlantic: How Walmart Is Changing China. http://bit.ly/rZ8rZm
28.10. Ökotest: Kinderschlafanzüge Druckfehler: http://bit.ly/tQtf6m
05.11. Berliner Zeitung Magazin. Kambodscha. Die Geschichte einer Näherin: http://bit.ly/vHq0ds
13.11. The Guardian: Puma aiming to produce compostable trainers and T-shirts. German sportswear manufacturer working on designs for shoes and clothing that can be buried at the bottom of the garden: http://bit.ly/uHFjiQ
16.11. Handelsblatt: PPR-Luxus-Marken auf den Öko-Spuren von Puma: http://bit.ly/uHBtNh
16.11. Economic Times (India): GAP, Walmart, C&A, H&M warn their Indian suppliers against textile mills that involve child & bonded-labour: http://bit.ly/s2RqjZ
19.11. The Hindu: Opinion » Columns » Harsh Mander Barefoot – An unfinished agenda – on child labour in India: http://bit.ly/uiGaLR
23.11. Manager Magazin: Nachhaltigkeit bei Adidas. “Schwachstellen gibt es immer”. Interview with H. Henke: http://bit.ly/vE4JUp
24.11. The Guardian: Howlers and omissions exposed in world of corporate social responsibility. Study points to slapdash fact- and figure-checking in companies http://bit.ly/ss3WJT
Blogs
1.11. Guardian Green Living Blog: Has campaigning for an ethical fashion industry had any impact? Progress might be slow, and a sweat-free high street is still a long way off, but it’s not all doom and gloom: http://bit.ly/vmXO6O
7.11. Textile Exchange Blog: If you want to address Climate Change make your cotton Organic: http://bit.ly/tNuNzw
11.11.: Peter Williams on ETI Blog: Certification is a blunt tool for implementing workers’ rights.: http://bit.ly/rJAXB2
23.11. Frau Jona&son Blog: Charle Vögele in Schwierigkeiten- Es ist Zeit für die Revolution! http://bit.ly/s4MvIT
Studies, reports
16.11. GfK Studie: GfK Global Green Index – Wie grün ist der Verbraucher wirklich? http://bit.ly/tf4lEC
09.11. SustainAbililty: Signed, Sealed … Delivered? Behind Certification and Beyond Labels. http://bit.ly/uobkEm
Call for Papers
Call for Papers: Corporate Social Responsibility and Irresponsibility. Corporate Social Responsibility and Irresponsibility. Call for Papers for Journal of Business Research (JBR) special issue. Deadline: January 15, 2012. http://bit.ly/uHV4Go
Conferences
Dezember 2011: »CSR – Gesellschaftliche Verantwortung im internationalen Dialog«. 15.&16.12. Berlin. http://bit.ly/rqKBgq
June 2012: 2012 EBEN Research Conference. Welcome to the website for the 2012 EBEN research conference. ‘Accountability, transparency, sustainability’. Thursday 7th to Saturday 9th June, 2012. Newcastle University Business School, England http://bit.ly/uYwdDQ
July 2012: Call for Conference Papers: The Changing Role of Business in Global Society. European Group of Organization Studies. EGOS Colloquium, Helsinki, Finland, July 5–7, 2012 http://bit.ly/uSHFWW
Oktober 2012: 5th International Conference on Corporate Social Responsibility. October 4-6, 2012. Berlin. http://www.csr-hu-berlin.org/5th-csr-conference/ (no CfP yet)
Books
Burckhardt, Gisela (Ed.): Mythos CSR – Unternehmensverantwortung und Regulierungslücken. http://www.sauberekleidung.de/
Magnus Boström; Mikael Klintman (2011): Eco-Standards, Product Labelling and Green Consumerism . Palgrave Macmillan , 09/2011. 272 Seiten. http://bit.ly/sLs6aO
Busch, Lawrence (2011). Standards. Recipes for reality. MIT Press, Cambridge. 390 Seiten.
Standards: Recipes for reality
Posted: November 23, 2011 Filed under: Book | Tags: lawrence busch, standards Leave a comment »Everyone is confronted with standards every day. Lawrence Busch, Professor at Michigan State University, argues that standards, shape not only the physical world around us but also our social lives and even our selves. Busch shows how standards are intimately connected to power–that they often serve to empower some and disempower others.
Busch recently conducted a research project on standards which aimed at:
- Developing a general theory of standards.
- Documenting the shift of governance from nation-states to various and diverse forms of private and private-public governance.
- Better linking standards to (a) ethics, and (b) democracy.
The book “Standards. Recipes for reality” came out of his research and was recently published at MIT Press. You can listen to Busch discussing his book in this Podcast.
If you love your baby, buy second hand or organic
Posted: November 13, 2011 Filed under: Studies | Tags: Ökotest, baby pyjamas, Schlafanzüge Leave a comment »The German consumer magazine Ökotest recently tested 20 baby pyjamas between 5 and 55 Euros in order to understand how toxic they are to your babies. Among these were three GOTS zertified pyjamas. Ökotest specializes on ecological issues, unlike the consumer magazine Stiftung Warentest.
The test resulted in 10 pyjamas (including those from DM, H&M, C&A, Schiesser) totally failing (“ungenügend” – i.e. score 1 out of 6), 1 “mangelhaft” (score 2 out of 5) – basically: KEEP YOUR FINGERS OFF. Two scored 3 of 6 and seven were tested as “good – i.e. 5 of 6″, including the 3 GOTS certified ones. Interestingly, also ÖkoTex 100 certified pyjamas resulted in the worst mark “ungenügend”. As you can imagine, the prints turned out as particularly problematic, as the H&M spiderman pyjama shows … Here is a screenshot from the magazine:
Basically, if you love your child, you should buy organic cotton and ignore prints – or, even better, buy second hand, maybe without prints.
And if you want to detox your babies in a more sustainable way, support the current Greenpeace campaign.
What have the unions ever done for us?
Posted: November 12, 2011 Filed under: Clip | Tags: Trade unions, What have the trade unions ever done Leave a comment »If you are still considering whether trade unions are really necessary this great “remake” might help.
I guess, you find the original on your own … Ben Moxham of the Trade Union Congress added this comment on the ETI website.
Misquoted by “Der Standard”
Posted: November 11, 2011 Filed under: News | Tags: Beyond Fashion, Standard 1 Comment »I just read that some days ago the Austrian newspaper “Der Standard” published an article “Bessere Mode” about the sustainable fashion industry, in which Mr. Hilpold mainly refers to quotes from presentations of the Beyond Fashion Summit.
Unfortunately Mr. Hilpold seemed to have totally misunderstood me. He indirectly quotes me saying that a sustainable production would lead to a maximum increase in retail prices of 5%. This is, of course, total nonsense, which I have never uttered in my life. All I said was that calculations of the FLO/FWF and experience of Alta Gracia show that the retail price only increases by 1-20%, when living wages are introduced … You can also read this on my slides.
I hope that the Standard corrects this. THANK YOU.
Look: An EU Eco-Label for Clothes!
Posted: November 11, 2011 Filed under: Standard, Tool | Tags: Eco-Label, Rapanui, Traceability, Transparency 1 Comment »A recent Ecologist article on Transparent fashion pointed me to the brand Rapanui, which I didn’t know, but which has some great ideas regarding traceability and labelling:
Already in 2008 Rapanui proposed a label like the EU label for electronics. This sounds awesome and is exactly what I recently talked about with Switcher, who also support such a label. It would surely have to be mandatory to have an effect. Rapanui announced that it will come forward with a proposal to a parliamentary commission sometime now:
This development work is being carried out by Rapanui with a view to handing over the draft framework fully to a parliamentary commission over the winter of 2011/12. However, it should be noted that Rapanui’s A-G clothing ecolabel proposal is not currently a scheme, policy, service or certification currently provided by an independent organisation, nor is it not recognised by government or any governmental organisation, or affiliated in any official way with current EU legislation. Instead it is intended to be a real-life demonstration by Rapanui to show and document the viability of a scheme, with the purpose to raise awareness of it’s potential to improve the clothing industry.
Weekly ethical fashion news digest
Posted: November 7, 2011 Filed under: Weekly news digest | Tags: Altkleider-Lüge, ethical behaviour, Patagonia Leave a comment »Here is a weekly update in which I link you to interesting newpaper articles. The selection of articles is arbitrary and the summaries very brief:
Guy Champniss, in Guardian Professional Network: How can we change consumer behaviour to benefit the environment?“
presents the concept of “social labelling”, which follows the idea that attitudes are formed as a result of behaviour – and not vice versa. Sounds interesting and corresponds to what the authors of “The Myth of the Ethical Consumer” say, if I remember correctly. Interesting online platoform is Green Decisions, which calculates the costs of ownership of a product.
Jo Confino, Guardian Professional Network: Time for advertising to steer consumers towards sustainable choices
portrays David Jones, a marketing expert, who pledges that company marketing should play a bigger role in making sustainability more attractive to consumers. He says interesting stuff like:
“There will be people who want brands as badges, and what we can do is change what those badges stand for.” or
“Radical transparency will do more to break our obsession with profit at any cost than anything else” or
“What we are seeing today is that social media has created access to more information about the consequences of our actions, and we are waking up to the fact we can no longer carry on business as usual. If the industrial revolution gave power to the company, digital revolution gives power to the consumer.” or
“The best way to mainstream sustainable living is to legislate. If I had said in 1990 that in 20 years you would not be able to smoke in a bar or restaurant in most places around the world, few people would have believed it. This is the most dramatic way of creating change.”
Martin Wright, Guardian: Success means telling people to buy less.
analyses how Patagonia exists to show that a for-profit companies can have sustainability built into the way it does business: “So we’re willing to have lower profitability at the beginning of a larger project in order to scale out over the long term.” or “We have two budget cycles: annual, and 10-year … This will cost us more upfront, but at the end of 10 years it will have paid for itself. We’re prepared to do the necessary investment to get a long term payback.”
Michael Höft in ZEIT online about the business selling used clothing to Africa: Das Kilo für 1,20 Dollar. Das große Geschäft mit den Kleiderspenden aus Deutschland
analyzes what happens to charity clothing that consumers donate to organizations like the Red Cross. He looks at the world leader in textile recycling, the Soex Group, with a turnover of 58 Mio. Euro, which in 2010 processed 85.000 tons of the annual 700.000 tons clothing collected a year in Germany. The little bad stuff is being recycled, the good clothes go to Eastern Europe and the 60% clothing of lower quality go to Africa, where it is sold and where it destroys local textile markets. For instance, in Tansania, 80.000 former textile workers have lost their job, due to the imports, because the local production cannot compete with the used clothing. One ex textile worker says: »Diese Kinderkleidung hier? Ich bin sicher, dass die Menschen, die sie gespendet haben, etwas Gutes tun wollten. Sicherlich rechnet keiner damit, dass sie uns in eine schreckliche Katastrophe gestürzt haben.« The way out of this? Friedel Hütz-Adams from the NGOS Südwind, who is working on a study on the topic, recommends: Cut-up your clothes before you donate them – but this somehow does not seem rights; maybe better resell them in Germany or in Ebay, as Patagonia tries.
Höft also did a 30 minutes documentary “Die Altkleider-Lüge” for the German TV station NDR.
What do you think of this weekly digest format?




