Chick & cheap: Do we need clothing from Asia?
Posted: January 26, 2011 Filed under: TV report | Tags: Bangladesh, Brauchen wir billige Kleidung, China, Clothing from Asia, Hessischer Rundfunk, India, KiK, Otto, Trigema 1 Comment »Yesterday (25.1. @ 21.45) the local German TV station “Hessischer Rundfunk” had a 45 minutes discussion headed “Chick & cheap: Do we need clothing from China, India, Bangladesh?” Four people were invited: the owner of Trigema (who produce in Germany), an Otto representative (who mainly produce in Asia), a journalist from the German women magazine “Brigitte” and the journalist, who researched the “KiK story”. You find more information here.
Although I think that the title is little helpful to the debate, although the “discussion round” is too biased (I am missing a worker and industry representative from India/China/Bangladesh), and although I haven’t seen the discussion, I recommend to watch the discussion, as there are not so many TV discussions about the topic. You can streamline the discussion during the next 6 days here. I am happy, if you give me your feedback on the discussion.
But what I find particularly sad about the HR website is the possibility to “vote” regarding the question: “Do we need clothing from China, India and Bangladesh? – you can answer “Yes” or “No” … Dear HR: Is this supposed to be high quality journalism? What kind of results do you expect or wish to achieve with such a (rhetoric) question regarding such a complex topic? How should the people interpret a result saying that, e.g., 80% voted for “Yes”? Maybe we would like to be informed about a “, because …”. This poll has “BILD”-”quality”: it is totally useless and, worse so, it results in misinformation or even manipulation of the readers. I am disappointed about this kind of publicly-funded journalism. Why don’t you rather open an audience-discussion about the TV discussion on your website.
Why an H&M T-Shirt costs only 4,95 Euro?
Posted: December 19, 2010 Filed under: News | Tags: Bangladesh, cheap T-shirts, H&M, T-shirt prices, Travels of a T-Shirt 3 Comments »Wolfgang Uchatius asks in this week’s DIE ZEIT, how an H&M T-Shirt can cost only 4,95 Euro (the exact same price as 10 years ago). In his long and well-researched article he follows the path of an H&M T-Shirt – a little bit like Rivoli’s “Travels of a T-Shirt”, but only on 3 pages. Uchatius discovers at least 7 secrets of the cheap H&M T-Shirt:
1. Cheap cotton: In the past years, the 400 g of cotton that you need for one T-Shirt cost around 0,40 Euro. US cotton is cheap, because the cotton stripping machines yield as much cotton a day as 300 workers, and because US-American taxpayers subsidize it by 40 Cents a shirt. Hence, machines and US taxpayers make our H&M T-Shirt cheap. However, Uchatius explains that the cotton price has been rising to 1 Euro for 400 g, because there is too little cotton in the world market at the moment.
2. Indecent working conditions: The ability of the workers in Bangladesh to hold back their need to go to the toilet during working hours (he explains the living and working conditions of workers in Bangladesh in some detail). Garment workes in Bangladesh drink little during working hours (in factories that are around 30-40 degrees hot!), because otherwise they need to go to toilet and then they do not manage the strict targets set by the factory management to achieve the low prices H&M pays.
3. Very low wages: Uchatius portrays a worker in Bangladesh, who cuts the loose ends of the H&M T-Shirts. She earns 1,18 Euro a day and finishes more than 2000 T-Shirts. She basically adds less than 0,001 Euro per T-Shirt (but she is also not the only one working on a shirt).
4. Low production costs in Bangladesh: The manager of the company in Bangladesh argues that they sell the T-Shirt for 1,35 Euro, a consultant says that it costs no more than 1,40 Euro (H&M did not confirm these prices, but they seem rather expensive to me – three years ago large companies in Dhaka told me they buy one shirt for 0,80$). This price, however, might rise, because the minium wages were increased.
5. Keeping the workers silent: A factory manager in Bangladesh says that he separates working processes into different factories in order to reduce the risk that worker protests spread easily.
6. Low shipping costs: The shipping of the T-Shirt is very cheap, due to containers and huge ships. H&M pays about 0,06 Euro to ship one T-Shirt.
7. Mass consumption: Of the 4,95 about 2,76 Euro stay with H&M (without T-Shirt costs, shipping, taxes). A consultant suggests in the article that H&M has around 2 Euro overheads (transport in Germany, rent of their shops etc.). About 0,60 Euro are H&M’s net benefits per T-Shirt. And if enough people buy such a cheap T-Shirt, a company like H&M can live quite well from it.
Uchatius raises the following dilemma of H&M: One the one hand, the cotton prices and the labour costs in Bangladesh have been rising. On the other hand, 5 Euro is a “magical” price barrier. If prices increase and if we need to pay more to give workers a decent life: Who pays these costs? He suggests that consumers should consider, whether they really need a T-Shirt that costs only little more than a coffee. He encourages the consumers to ask, whether they would also pay three coffees for a T-Shirt. If I look at the commentaries to the article, many consumers seem to pose very few questions…
Four killed in clashes on RMG wages in Bangladesh
Posted: December 12, 2010 Filed under: News | Tags: Bangladesh, labour unrests, Minimum Wages, worker demonstrations Leave a comment »Today, there were again clashes on the streets of Bangladeshm, due to protests about low minimum wages – and the clashes between protesters and the police ended with four dead, as the Daily Star reports. The police used rubber bullets and tear gas and said that 4.000 people demonstrated and that 300 factories had to close.
In November 2010, the government raised the official minimum wages to 3.000 Taka, while many trade unions were and are demanding 5.000 Taka, and the Asian Floor Wage Campaign is demanding to pay a living wage of over 10.000 Taka.
The German Tagesschau reports here – arguing that since November 2010 workers get (“sie erhalten”) 3.000 Taka. This is inaccurate: According to the law, workers should get 3.000 Taka. But many surely do not get this. Before November, workers were supposed to get 1.662 Taka, and many did not. Now, the Labour Minister promised to punish factories, if they do not pay the minimum wage.
Officials are now looking for a solution, as the Daily Star says: “Meanwhile, the labour ministry officials and representatives of RMG factory owners and workers will sit with the BGMEA leaders today at the BGMEA Bhaban to settle the RMG unrest”. You can read more about this in the The Daily Star (here and here) or on BBC.
ZDF documentary: Sew until you collapse?
Posted: December 9, 2010 Filed under: TV report | Tags: Auditing, Bangladesh, C&A, factory fires, Michael Otto, Otto, Working Conditions Leave a comment »Provocatively titled “Nähen bis zum Umfallen?” / “Sew until you collapse?” the German public TV channel (ZDF) today at 0.35 showed a 45-minute documentary on working conditions in the Asian garment industry (and on Tuesday a 5-minutes cut from this documentary at 11 pm). The documentary looks at the garment industry in Bangladesh, China and India. It follows internal auditors by Otto and C&A during their work and shows how they check the factories, how they demand code compliance from the factory managers, how they interview workers (which was little convincing) and what problems they are confronted with in their job.
Here is the 5-minute piece from the ZDF Auslandsjournal and here you can stream the full documentary.
Basically, the documentary argues that European companies do a lot to improve working conditions in the factories in Asia (particularly child labour & health & fire safety) and that without their pressure the conditions were much worse. The documentary shows quite well, how difficult it is for the auditors to make factory managers improve the conditions, particularly regarding sub-contractors.
However, the documentary does not mention more deeply rooted issues, e.g.: the problems connected to the prevailing purchasing practices and the conflics with social standards (one auditor only once mentions that buyers are intersted in low prices, while they are intersted in the social standards), living wages or freedom of association. The report also hardly puts the positions of the auditors into contrast with organizations, who oppose them. Interestingly, the only trade unionist quoted in the documentary says that higher minimum wages in Bangladesh would destroy 50% of the industry, an argument that the industry lobby in Bangladesh usually provides.
While the NGO x-mas story reads “boycott” or “only support the ‘good’ companies”, this story suggests a little mixed picture: There are large problems, but German companies are working to improve them: Merry x-mas!
The limits of voluntary CSR
Posted: November 11, 2010 Filed under: News | Tags: Bangladesh, BSCI, Geiz, SZ, Working Conditions Leave a comment »The largest German quality paper, the Süddeutsche Zeitung, recently published a good article about the CCC discounter tour in Germany. It sums up the main problems that we keep on reading about Bangladesh, the policies of discounters and the BSCI. Khorshed Alam (who did the research for the CCC lawsuit against Lidl) and Arifa Akter (an ex-worker and now unionist) report about issues we keep on hearing: (a) Being active in trade unions can be dangerous for the workers, even if the companies are member in the BSCI, (b) Minimum wages are too low – e.g. one room already costs 20 Euros of the 30 Euros the workers earn, (c) Workers are beaten, (d) Membership in an initiative like BSCI does not improve the workers’ situation. They all argue that whatever Lidl has promised in its CSR policy has not been effective, so far.
What do other BSCI members say? Yesterday I was invited to a quite large BSCI member to discuss my critique on the BSCI and their minimum wage policy. The CEO argued eloquently that as a family business they fully embrace a responsible policy for their workers. This is why they have 15 people on their CSR team, who check every factory, before they give an order. But he didn’t tell whether trade unions were a must-criteria (I guess not). They also know where the texiles are produced – and if the suppliers betray them they sooner or later find out. Together with 15 other companies they ensure that hazardous substances are not in the garments – one simple reason is that they do not want, e.g., their kids to be buying hazardous clothes – but he didn’t say, whether the dyeing factories have proper water treatment plants. He talked about one school in Indonesia and another they plan in Bangladesh, which is often criticized as Greenwashing. But here is a difference: They do not make it public. They do it becuase their long-term suppliers can later employ well educated mid-level management staff, who exactly know the needs of their customers. As a positive side effect, poor people are educated and get a job. A typical win-win CSR.
Here are some other intersting aspects from our conversation and some quick ideas that could be examined by researchers:
- Toghether with other companies, this company successfully lobbies production country governments regarding the improvement of environmental protection. This is surely a method companies could use to improve social and environmental standards – and there is little research on democracy and lobbyism by European companies in production countries regarding social / environmental issues.
- Regarding living wages he argued that this is too much an intervention into the competitive host environment – and that it would not work. In addition, it is too much an external intervention into the business of the factory manager (although prescribing quality standards or ILO norms is not). He explained that the factory manager will argue that he will do what the law tells him to do, and not more. And that it would not work, if you had less than 90% of the factory capacity. I would really like to do research on cases, where living wages were successfully implemented. Are there any examples?!
- Being criticized as “ignorant” by the CCC did not really bother him, because this only had regionally limited impact. However, he plans to become member in an MSI around next year. So: How much are such policy decisions driven by external influence?
- They use a very small amount of Cotton Made in Africa – but he didn’t know GOTS, which surprised me. Why does a CEOs of large companies not know the GOTS standard? In a study they conducted 5 years ago they realized that customers do not value, the organic products they offered. This corresponds to the myth of the ethical consumer – or has the time changed in the last 5 years?
- Transparency about the supply chain, he argued, was an absolute no-go area, due to reasons of competitiveness. So why do some make their supply chains and audit reports competitive, while others would absolutely not do it?
Some issues pointed out that voluntary responsibility is very limited.
11 Cents per hour: Workers talk about their working conditions
Posted: November 3, 2010 Filed under: Clip, NGO studies | Tags: Bangladesh, CCC, Charles Vögele, Germany, Living wages, Switzerland, Working Conditions 1 Comment »These days, NGOs in Germany and Switzerland talk a lot about the poor working conditions in Asia, and particularly about living wages. The EvB in Switzerland today published the following video, in which it criticizes Charles Vögele, who invited Penelope Cruz to the Swiss Fashion show, while paying low wages to the workers:
The German public TV-station ZDF today reported about the “discounter-tour” of the CCC in Germany, where workers and theri representatives from Bangladesh talk about their working conditions, e.g., the 11 Cents they get per hour. Here you find the 2 minutes TV-report. And here are the dates and programmes of the tour:
Bonn (02.11.2010)
Stuttgart (03.11.2010)
München (04.11.2010)
Hannover (05.11.2010)
Leipzig (08.11.2010)
Berlin (10.11.2010)
Hamburg (11.11.2010)
Bremen (15.11.2010)
Münster (16.11.2010)
Oberhausen (17.11.2010) Fachtagung Oberhausen (17.11.2010)
KOBLENZ (18.11.2010)


