Been There! Done It! Not sure I’ve earned the t-shirt!
Posted: August 18, 2011 Filed under: Book, Clip | Tags: Been There, Done It, Lucy Siegle, Northumbria School of Design, sweatshop conditions, Working Conditions Leave a comment »I am just reading Lucy Siegle’s “To die for”. On page 43 she explains ‘sweatshop’ working conditions. She reports about the ‘virtual factory standard’, which allows workers to take 15 Minutes for a pair of five-pocket jeans. To explain what that means, she refers to an interesting experiment of the Northumbria School of Design.
A team of 60 first year students set up a typical production line of a factory for producing T-shirts. While the standard factory allows the workers 48,5 seconds for sewing each sideseam, the students were allowed 1 min 55 sec ….
After 7,5 hours the students produced 95 T-Shirts. The daily target in a factory in Bangladesh with the same line load is 900.
Siegle writes: “… these guinea pigs aren’t exposed to conditions that can include being punched in the face for attending meetings, having their documents and permits taken from them, being denied access to a foetid toilet unteil their bladders are about to burst, being sexually assaulted or forced to have abortions…“
HERE you find the video they produced.
BBC 3 produced a similar idea “Blood, Sweat and T-shirts“
ZDF documentary: Sew until you collapse?
Posted: December 9, 2010 Filed under: TV report | Tags: Auditing, Bangladesh, C&A, factory fires, Michael Otto, Otto, Working Conditions Leave a comment »Provocatively titled “Nähen bis zum Umfallen?” / “Sew until you collapse?” the German public TV channel (ZDF) today at 0.35 showed a 45-minute documentary on working conditions in the Asian garment industry (and on Tuesday a 5-minutes cut from this documentary at 11 pm). The documentary looks at the garment industry in Bangladesh, China and India. It follows internal auditors by Otto and C&A during their work and shows how they check the factories, how they demand code compliance from the factory managers, how they interview workers (which was little convincing) and what problems they are confronted with in their job.
Here is the 5-minute piece from the ZDF Auslandsjournal and here you can stream the full documentary.
Basically, the documentary argues that European companies do a lot to improve working conditions in the factories in Asia (particularly child labour & health & fire safety) and that without their pressure the conditions were much worse. The documentary shows quite well, how difficult it is for the auditors to make factory managers improve the conditions, particularly regarding sub-contractors.
However, the documentary does not mention more deeply rooted issues, e.g.: the problems connected to the prevailing purchasing practices and the conflics with social standards (one auditor only once mentions that buyers are intersted in low prices, while they are intersted in the social standards), living wages or freedom of association. The report also hardly puts the positions of the auditors into contrast with organizations, who oppose them. Interestingly, the only trade unionist quoted in the documentary says that higher minimum wages in Bangladesh would destroy 50% of the industry, an argument that the industry lobby in Bangladesh usually provides.
While the NGO x-mas story reads “boycott” or “only support the ‘good’ companies”, this story suggests a little mixed picture: There are large problems, but German companies are working to improve them: Merry x-mas!
The limits of voluntary CSR
Posted: November 11, 2010 Filed under: News | Tags: Bangladesh, BSCI, Geiz, SZ, Working Conditions Leave a comment »The largest German quality paper, the Süddeutsche Zeitung, recently published a good article about the CCC discounter tour in Germany. It sums up the main problems that we keep on reading about Bangladesh, the policies of discounters and the BSCI. Khorshed Alam (who did the research for the CCC lawsuit against Lidl) and Arifa Akter (an ex-worker and now unionist) report about issues we keep on hearing: (a) Being active in trade unions can be dangerous for the workers, even if the companies are member in the BSCI, (b) Minimum wages are too low – e.g. one room already costs 20 Euros of the 30 Euros the workers earn, (c) Workers are beaten, (d) Membership in an initiative like BSCI does not improve the workers’ situation. They all argue that whatever Lidl has promised in its CSR policy has not been effective, so far.
What do other BSCI members say? Yesterday I was invited to a quite large BSCI member to discuss my critique on the BSCI and their minimum wage policy. The CEO argued eloquently that as a family business they fully embrace a responsible policy for their workers. This is why they have 15 people on their CSR team, who check every factory, before they give an order. But he didn’t tell whether trade unions were a must-criteria (I guess not). They also know where the texiles are produced – and if the suppliers betray them they sooner or later find out. Together with 15 other companies they ensure that hazardous substances are not in the garments – one simple reason is that they do not want, e.g., their kids to be buying hazardous clothes – but he didn’t say, whether the dyeing factories have proper water treatment plants. He talked about one school in Indonesia and another they plan in Bangladesh, which is often criticized as Greenwashing. But here is a difference: They do not make it public. They do it becuase their long-term suppliers can later employ well educated mid-level management staff, who exactly know the needs of their customers. As a positive side effect, poor people are educated and get a job. A typical win-win CSR.
Here are some other intersting aspects from our conversation and some quick ideas that could be examined by researchers:
- Toghether with other companies, this company successfully lobbies production country governments regarding the improvement of environmental protection. This is surely a method companies could use to improve social and environmental standards – and there is little research on democracy and lobbyism by European companies in production countries regarding social / environmental issues.
- Regarding living wages he argued that this is too much an intervention into the competitive host environment – and that it would not work. In addition, it is too much an external intervention into the business of the factory manager (although prescribing quality standards or ILO norms is not). He explained that the factory manager will argue that he will do what the law tells him to do, and not more. And that it would not work, if you had less than 90% of the factory capacity. I would really like to do research on cases, where living wages were successfully implemented. Are there any examples?!
- Being criticized as “ignorant” by the CCC did not really bother him, because this only had regionally limited impact. However, he plans to become member in an MSI around next year. So: How much are such policy decisions driven by external influence?
- They use a very small amount of Cotton Made in Africa – but he didn’t know GOTS, which surprised me. Why does a CEOs of large companies not know the GOTS standard? In a study they conducted 5 years ago they realized that customers do not value, the organic products they offered. This corresponds to the myth of the ethical consumer – or has the time changed in the last 5 years?
- Transparency about the supply chain, he argued, was an absolute no-go area, due to reasons of competitiveness. So why do some make their supply chains and audit reports competitive, while others would absolutely not do it?
Some issues pointed out that voluntary responsibility is very limited.
11 Cents per hour: Workers talk about their working conditions
Posted: November 3, 2010 Filed under: Clip, NGO studies | Tags: Bangladesh, CCC, Charles Vögele, Germany, Living wages, Switzerland, Working Conditions 1 Comment »These days, NGOs in Germany and Switzerland talk a lot about the poor working conditions in Asia, and particularly about living wages. The EvB in Switzerland today published the following video, in which it criticizes Charles Vögele, who invited Penelope Cruz to the Swiss Fashion show, while paying low wages to the workers:
The German public TV-station ZDF today reported about the “discounter-tour” of the CCC in Germany, where workers and theri representatives from Bangladesh talk about their working conditions, e.g., the 11 Cents they get per hour. Here you find the 2 minutes TV-report. And here are the dates and programmes of the tour:
Bonn (02.11.2010)
Stuttgart (03.11.2010)
München (04.11.2010)
Hannover (05.11.2010)
Leipzig (08.11.2010)
Berlin (10.11.2010)
Hamburg (11.11.2010)
Bremen (15.11.2010)
Münster (16.11.2010)
Oberhausen (17.11.2010) Fachtagung Oberhausen (17.11.2010)
KOBLENZ (18.11.2010)

